How to Make High-Quality Climbing Volumes

Have you ever noticed those amazing 3D shapes in climbing gyms? They turn flat walls into exciting puzzles. Each curve and angle combines smart engineering with creative design.

Making professional climbing volumes requires four key skills:

1. Structural design

2. Material knowledge

3. Body-friendly shaping

4. Safety testing

These volumes come in many forms:

• CNC-cut plywood triangles

• Molded fiberglass caves
  All must survive thousands of climbs while offering different challenges.

My first attempt was a simple wooden wedge. Physics quickly taught me a lesson – it broke during a basic move. That failure showed me angles do real work, not just look good.

Now I focus on three things for every volume:

1. Challenge – makes climbers think differently

2. Safety – holds 10 times a climber’s weight

3. Flexibility – adapts as routes change

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Key Truths About Climbing Volumes

Volumes require steel reinforcement for commercial use. True
Gym-grade volumes use internal steel frames to prevent catastrophic failure.

Fiberglass volumes can’t accommodate wooden holds. False
With threaded inserts, fiberglass accepts all standard hold types.

1. The Anatomy of a Perfect Volume: Design Principles

“Good volumes don’t just add holds—they rewrite movement vocabulary.”

Geometry as a Language

Early in my design journey, I learned that 15° changes everything. A 30° slab teaches balance; a 45° overhang demands power; a concave curve forces creative hip positioning. My signature “Mantis Volume” combines three angles in one asymmetric shape, creating infinite climb variations.

Surface Intelligence

• Texture Gradient: Laser-engraved dimples on launch zones → smooth finish on technical slabs

• T-Nut Philosophy: 8″ grid for standard holds + clustered “problem zones” for comp-style creativity

• Transition Magic: Radiused edges where planes meet to enable fluid movement

Modularity Matrix

After consulting with 12 gyms, I developed a modular connector system allowing:

• Horizontal stacking (creating roofs)

• Vertical nesting (building dihedrals)

• Quick-rotation (changing features between sets)

2. Material Wars: Plywood vs. Fiberglass

“Your material choice determines whether you’re building a tank or a feather.”

The Ultimate Material Showdown

Plywood Deep Dive

• Best Types: Marine-grade birch or oak-faced phenolic

• Reinforcement Needed:

  • Steel L-brackets at all joints

  • 2-part epoxy coating for moisture protection

• Pro Tip: Route 1/8″ relief grooves on the backside to prevent warping

Fiberglass Mastery

• Layup Technique:

  • 3-layer sandwich: Gelcoat → Chopped strand mat → Woven roving

  • 45° fiber orientation for torsional strength

• Mold Hack: Use CNC-cut foam positives for complex shapes

Cost-Saving Strategies

• Hybrid Approach: Fiberglass skin over plywood core for mid-range projects

• Salvage Trick: Repurpose discarded wind turbine blades (same fiberglass composition)

Real-World Test Data

After 6 months in a busy gym:

• Plywood volumes showed 2-3mm surface wear

• Fiberglass maintained <0.5mm wear with identical usage

Pro Tips from the Workshop

• Plywood Secret: Soak Baltic birch in marine-grade epoxy for weather resistance

• Fiberglass Hack: Use closed-cell foam cores to dampen vibration

• Future Tech: 3D-printed carbon fiber lattice structures (coming 2025)

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3. Engineering for Impact: Load Calculations & Reinforcement

“If your volume can’t survive a 300lb dyno, it’s just wall art.”

The Physics of Failure

• Static Load Minimum: 3x climber weight (e.g., 600lbs for a 200lb climber)

• Dynamic Load Minimum: 6x for falls (1,200lbs+)

• Shear Force Hotspots: Corners and attachment points absorb 70% of stress

Reinforcement Blueprint

1. Internal Skeleton: 1″ steel square tubing for spans >36″

2. Skin Bonding: Fiberglass layers cross-laminated at 45° angles

3. Anchor Systems: Double-bolted with Grade 8 hardware + load-distributing backplates

Real-World Stress Test

My “Terminator Protocol”:

• 50 consecutive dynos by a 220lb climber

• -20°F to 120°F temperature cycling

• 1-hour salt spray (simulating gym sweat)

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4. The Safety Gauntlet: Testing & Certifications

“Certifications aren’t paperwork—they’re liability force fields.”

Mandatory Standards

• UIAA 125: Dynamic load testing for climbing equipment

• EN 12572-3: Volume-specific structural requirements

• ASTM F2974-20: Hold attachment point durability

Inspection Checklist

✅ T-Nut Torque Test: 35 ft-lbs minimum
✅ Edge Radius: No sharpness detectable by 3mm gauge
✅ Chemical Safety: VOC-free coatings (tested via gas chromatography)

Failure Analysis

A client’s volume recall taught me:

• Cause: Subpar resin in fiberglass layers → delamination under humidity

• Fix: Now all materials get batch testing before fabrication

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5. From Workshop to Wall: Installation & Maintenance

“A volume is only as good as its weakest bolt.”

Installation Masterclass

• Wall Compatibility: Confirm stud spacing matches volume anchors

• Load Distribution: Use 1/4″ steel mounting plates to prevent wall damage

• Alignment Tools: Laser levels for multi-volume installations

Maintenance Schedule

Pro Tip

Mark high-wear areas with thermochromic paint—color changes indicate stress buildup before cracks form.

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Conclusion

Building elite climbing volumes is equal parts architecture, materials science, and movement psychology. Whether you’re crafting a backyard training tool or an IFSC championship centerpiece, remember: the best volumes don’t just challenge fingers—they expand what climbers believe is possible.

Ready to shape the future of climbing? Start with these blueprints and send me your creations—I’ll feature the most innovative designs in my next guide.

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All volumes require professional load testing. False
Small DIY volumes under 24″ can use calculated safety factors.

Plywood volumes can’t exceed 60° overhangs. True
Beyond this angle, steel reinforcement becomes mandatory.